Varanasi has few spots of pure tranquility, but witnessing the sun lazily un-haze it's eyes from a silent rowing boat along the great Ganges was blissful. We drew past hundreds of people cleansing their bodies and souls in the holy river, as others slapped washed clothes against the steps and spread them out to parch dry. Elsewhere relatives led orange-clothed goodbyes for other relatives by cremating them at the many ghats along the river banks.
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